Scented memories 1- Lavender in Provence, France
I once traveled to a fairy tale land which smelled of lavender, fresh and alive. It made me believe
that I am in a classic Disney movie. I know it sounds cheesy, but the feeling
is real and as long as I was there that's exactly how I felt. Nowhere in this
world did I feel so much peace and relaxation. To me, places have a certain
smell or feeling. Each part of the world which I remember somehow smells
in a certain way or gives me a certain feeling. Provence smells like lavender.
As I arrived there, the lavender had already been picked. We chose the
picturesque way and drove among hills with narrow roads and turning points.
After a turning point, as the road began to descend, I saw a lavender field for the first time in my
life. I lowered the car window . The sweet smell invaded my nostrils and my
very soul, bringing a deep peaceful feeling.
That moment I
understood why everybody chose to move so slowly in Provence. They had no
reason to hurry. I let lavender teach me how to appreciate what was around me.
The more we entered the area, the stronger was the smell. It came with you
everywhere as a reminder that you have no reason to hurry or to run. In the
small villages, the houses looked all the same. With their shutters painted in
strong colors, with long curtains, with scorched patches of paint and with
their climbing plants, full of aromas and invading the windows and the doors,
they made you never want to leave this place. Among the villages, there were lavender fields or
sunflower, yellow and alive. K had found the house on the Internet while I was
asleep in the same day I had climbed at 3800 m height and got sunburned. We
rented a room in a farm in a village we had never heard of. It was called
Moustieres Sainte Marie. It had 800 inhabitants. When I saw the image of the
village from afar I told myself there was no way we could have been so lucky.
It was the only village which look differently and I give you my word I had no
idea how we had managed to find it. It lays at the foot of two rocks, very
close to Gorges du Verdon, a spectacular canyon. From afar you can't even tell
that there's a village. Although it's so small, the village simply blows your
mind. All narrow and winding streets climb and descend all the way and every
now and then houses or an incredibly
picturesque landscape show up. The village is split by a mountain river which
flows from between the two rocks. It's always full of tourists and it always
smells like lavender.
Do you remember the restaurant Remy opens up
in Ratatouille? If you are foodies
and love France, you are going to love Ratatouille
even if you haven't seen it yet. I ate in a similar place in Moustieres. I'm no
culinary critic and I don't know the criteria to appreciate a restaurant. To me
it was perfect. From the relaxed atmosphere, to the menu which was completely
in French (which I don't speak) and was explained with genuine attention, to
the rose wine which was extremely full of flavors, to the ceramic cup in which
they served water and to the four ( yes, just for main courses) in the menu and
the red flowers and the oleanders which decorated the terrace all around, I
found nothing not to my liking. The irony? I can't remember the name of the
restaurant, but if I ever got back to Moustieres, I would find it. So that you
don't say that I favor French cuisine, the next evening we ate somewhere else, but
I didn't like
the place at all.
When we decided to go
to Provence we knew we wanted to walk around and maybe hike, but we had no idea
where. The truth is that after we got to know the village where we were staying
we didn't want to go anywhere else. All the farms where you can stay for a few
days in the villages in Provence are so idilic, that they defy reason. I would
have wanted to sit on the terrace in front of my room and sunbathe all day. It
would have been a big mistake. In French
combined with English, our hostess told us to visit Gorges du Verdon. (She had
a huge black dog which ate yogurt leftovers straight from the jar and whose
name was Foufou). Verdon was the first canyon I ever saw. I was so afraid of
the height that I couldn't breathe but the startling blue water lake hypnotized
me and I forgot the fright. I still remember a distinct image besides the olive
trees and the contorted fir trees and the rocks which seemed to fall straight
onto your head. The canyon is crossed by a couple of bridges which have a huge
fall beneath them. Obviously, there are bungee jumpers. From the speed of the
car while we are approaching the bridge I saw the face of a jumper. He was more
than terrified. After a few seconds I heard his cry of joy, wild and unhinged.
I regretfully thought that it's a sensation I will never know, because I'm too
afraid.
I didn't stay in Provence as long as I would
have wanted, I didn't get to do everything I would have wanted. If you look at
the map, you can't understand how big the territory is and how many things you
can do. I would have liked to visit a few cities, but there was no time and the
distances were bigger than we estimated. I would go back anytime. I would want
to smell that sweet lavender again, to abandon myself to the quiet in those
cool blue shaded houses and to drink a perfect glass of rose wine. This is a place
I have fallen in love with at a lavender scented first date.